Monthly Archives: May 2012

We Know What Good Is: The 12 Most Important Restaurants in New Orleans

He and She Said:

Let’s agree to disagree, shall we?

We’ve done lists and rankings for years here because, as our editors always remind us, readers freaking love the lists. Our editors are a pair of Boston Terriers, but that does not change the truth of this statement.

But this was the toughest, the one whose preparation most frequently produced outbursts of Whiskey Tango Foxtrot and ‘you don’t know what the hell you’re talking about.’ Testing the idea in the standard He Said/She Said focus groups (i.e. cocktail buddies) produced similar heated disagreement. Here’s the premise:

What are the most important restaurants in New Orleans? Not the best (although we think you need to be good to be important) but the most influential. Imagine a friend traveling to NOLA for the first time. Their only goal is get a comprehensive grasp of New Orleans food culture. Money and time are no option, so where would you send them? You should feel like the picture would be incomplete without each place on your list.

Why 12 places? No reason, really. We started with the general idea of a top ten, and bargaining, negotiating and best two out of three lawn darts left us with an even dozen we think have to be included. There were some just-misses that were tough to leave off, and we’ll mention a few of those at the end. If the focus group is any indication, we welcome your passionate disagreements. In alphabetical order, here’s the list: Continue reading

Down by the Seaside: Essaouira

Taking it easy in Essaouira

He Said:

Eventually there were camels, of course.

Beach towns, it would seem, share an essential beachiness, an island time sensibility originating probably somewhere in the Caribbean and spun across the Horse Latitudes, colonizing any place with a patch of sand. Even a place as madcap and frenetic as Morocco becomes a 78rpm set on 45 once you reach the ocean, a concept we considered at leisure with feet propped and cold drinks in front of us, looking out at the Atlantic from the end of Africa and watching the camels in the sand.

Essaouira, or simply ‘Essa’ as locals and those not wishing to use up all their vowels at once call it, is an old port town on the Western coast of Morocco, famous for windsurfing, alleged Jimi Hendrix visits in the 60’s, and an overall laid-back atmosphere. It was the last major stop on our trip earlier this year, a three-hour bus ride across the desert after days of head-on-a-swivel negotiation of labyrinthine Marrakech and Fez. Continue reading

Reflections: Jazz Festing and First Times

She Said:

There’s a first time for everything.

 

Have you recovered yet? I can assure you that I am still getting there. Jazz Fest takes a lot out of a person but it gives back so much to a soul. It is like a bank whereby I store up little deposits of culture and good vibes that allow me to manage through the lulls. 

 

He Said and I came to the realization a long time ago: Jazz Fest is more than just music and food from 11-7 Thursday-Sunday for two weeks. It’s about connecting with old friends, camaraderie, making new friends, after Fest events, early morning parties, night concerts, etc. etc. It is a lifestyle.

 

This year proved no exception for the He Said/She Said household and by the time the second weekend drew to a conclusion we feltl we needed a vacation. We were limited this year to second weekend festing, but fret not my friends, because we worked hard to make up for lost time.

 

What stood out to me as I dragged myself to work that sad Monday morning, May 7 was that this year proved to be a week of “first’s”. I built my cultural bank with countless first-time and only-in New Orleans experiences.

 

Tuesday between Fest weeks we dined at Maurepas (1st dinner there) followed by drinks at both Bud Rip’s and The Saturn Bar (that’s #2 and #3). And yes, I am absolutely ashamed to say that it was my first trek to The Saturn Bar. Wednesday was a rough day but I managed to drag myself to a private courtyard concert featuring Trombone Shorty (#4 for those of you counting). That was a highlight given that it was: a) free and: b) we had an absolutely perfect viewing spot and the sound was crystal clear.

 

This year was my first Thursday Fest day which immediately made my must-do annual list. Thursdays at the Fest rock! The crowds are significantly lower and the vibe is perfect as it is widely local and everyone is skipping work- so really, what’s not to love? That night we went to the Stooges at the Hi-Ho Lounge after a repeat visit to The Saturn Bar with our dear friends. If you haven’t been on a Thursday night to see the Stooges you are missing out.

 

Our first ever crawfish boil was hosted on Friday night after our friends wrapped up at the fest. This was an unmentionable on my bucket list- How can you be from New Orleans and not have boiled crawfish yourself? No more I say as I checked that one off. Saturday morning Steve attended a French Quarter Courtyard ‘Mexican Breakfast’ which began with 8am tequila, live music and yes there was actual food as well. He attended with our friend from D.C. while I opted out because I wanted to be fresh for the day of festing ahead. Saturday post-Fest dinner was at Suis Generis and our table of 8 had a fantastic time.

 

Sunday we were in recuperation mode and did not hit the Fairgrounds. Let’s face it folks, you and I both know that the Fest and all related activities are expensive. Hence, we decided to attend one day. I was lucky enough to borrow a Brass Pass for Thursday’s visit to which I went solo (a thing I actually kind of enjoy). That evening we met up with our out-of-town compadre for an evening set at Snug Harbor: Terrance Blanchard (#7). He was awesome and the Sunday evening close-out event at Snug Harbor has become a sort of tradition for the three of us.

 

As Jazzfest drew to a close and we got back to our regular schedules I managed to get one last ‘first’ in. Tuesday morning after an early-morning work-out it dawned on me that in fact, we had an event planned Monday night. Yes, we purchased tickets to the Curds and Cocktails event put on by St. James Cheese Company the prior week. I would love to tell you how it was, but I have no idea because we completely forgot about the event which was Monday evening. I have never unknowingly skipped out on an event and I certainly wouldn’t opt out of something that we spent money on. A pretty clear sign that Jazzfest kicked our butts.

 

Here is what I’ve come to determine: Jazz Fest is akin to the Thousand Mardi Gras. There isn’t just one way to celebrate. It is a cultural experience that means many different things to many different people. The more I experience the Fest, the more I peel back my own fest onion and yet I still come back to the idea that there is a first time for everything! For now my friends, my wallet may be empty but my soul is full.