Monthly Archives: February 2012

Apocalypse Redux: Lebanon’s Cafe

Posted on February 29, 2012 | 6 Comments

He Said:

A couple of weeks ago, I went off on one of my patented rants about a disappointing meal we had at Lebanon, one of our favorite spots.

I’m not linking to it here, and you won’t find it in our archives, because it is now the first thing we’ve ever written that we’ve subsequently taken down.

There wasn’t anything factually wrong with it: We did have a bad experience, and the service wasn’t good.  And it prompted some conversation in a forum on NewOrleans.com. Some of those folks, as well as a commenter on our own blog, weren’t too keen on the laborious manner in which we split the check.

Here are some other comments on splitting checks:

…that does make it less likely a calculator will be produced at the table for the hideous purpose of splitting the check, a practice that should be illegal in any civilized country. -January 8, 2011

…there is a special circle of Hell reserved for restaurants who deliberately and grossly overbook (I’m not sure which one, but I think it’s between the check-splitters and the scheduling-a-wedding-during-Jazzfest people). -April 7, 2010

The author of those quotes? Yep, you guessed it: me. So I managed to breezily pass over being guilty of one of my own cardinal dining rules. More importantly, the more I thought about the post, the less good it seemed. I try to keep the humor in my rants, and some of them strike a chord in readers. I try for snarky and funny, but the more I reread this one it seemed like snarky and mean, which isn’t where I want to be, and not what we want our writing to be about.

The other half of this writing duo advised me that if it continued to weigh on me that was all the answer I needed about what was the right thing to do. So my apologies to Lebanon, a very good restaurant, to a server who was probably just having a shitty day, and to you who read us. All of you deserved better than a nasty pile-on.

Today’s leap day, so I take that opportunity for a little do over, and I’ll try to stay on the high road in the future.

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Keeping Up With The (Indiana) Joneses in Marrakech

Posted on February 27, 2012 | 2 Comments

 

Standard issue transportation

He said:

Word is that Steven Spielberg modeled Indiana Jones’ adventures after the serials of the 1930′s and ’40′s. That source material is a bit before my time, to be sure, but Raiders of the Lost Ark is a terrific film. Thrills, chills, danger and mayhem that begin from the moment you hit your seat. Forget nuance: the good guys are really good, the bad guys are really bad, and their conflict spills across one exotic backdrop after another.

Early on, Indy’s tough former girlfriend Marion is kidnapped by agents of the Nazis in the Cairo bazaar. She’s thrown in a basket identical to a thousand others as Jones tears down innumerable confusing alleys dodging donkeys, motorcycles, and wall to wall Egyptians in a cacophonous ramble that is one of the best sequences in the movie.

Throw out the damsel in distress, move the venue west into Morocco, and the Medina in Marrakech is exactly like that. Spielberg’s movie is set in the 1940′s, but a few brands and trademarks that feel like anachronisms are really all that hints at 2012 in the Medina of today, and the donkeys are still around.

You don’t see this every day

The old walled city of Marrakech dates from the 12th century. The medina of Fes, the imperial city seven hours to the northeast, is older and even larger, but not as frenetic and pulsating. Marrakech is frustrating, fascinating, exhilarating, and exhausting by turns: full contact travel that turns over-stimulation into an art form. Continue reading →

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The 1000 Mardi Gras

Posted on February 21, 2012 | 1 Comment

 He said:

“Take Mardi Gras,” he said: ‘You visit, or move here from somewhere else, and you go stand on a street corner and see a parade and that’s Mardi Gras. But that’s just the first part of it. Just the beginning.”

We were in Vancouver for the first time last fall. Right off the plane, nothing in the fridge at home, we dropped in at a place whose owner happens to hail from then Pacific Northwest. We chatted about how much we enjoyed Vancouver. He agreed with us that is was very broad, but not nearly as deep as New Orleans, and that prompted his thoughts on Mardi Gras.

A couple of weeks ago we were at a house party for Krewe de Vieux in the Marigny, and we met a few couples, most now with kids, who’d been masking together In their own unnamed themed subkrewe for years, yet another layer of the purple green and gold onion.

As a child, my parents brought us to Napoleon Avenue at Magazine to see the truck parades. My dad would drop off my mom and all of us, find parking, and then schlep the ladder back from wherever to the neutral ground. We always had Popeye’s.

Beginning at 16 I was off with my friends, starting at Napoleon and Claiborne and walking to St. Charles, turning up the Avenue, and roaming all the way into the Quarter, with pit stops on the way that changed from year to year. In the hubris of youth, I thought we were seeing the ‘whole Mardi Gras.’

When I was 20, I celebrated Carnival in Venice, a forever memory, and in 2006 I was downtown for light crowds and blue skies the year after Katrina at maybe the best Mardi Gras ever.

Lately, we’ve been in the Quarter and the Marigny, catching the Krewe of Saint Anne and dropping in on parties behind the walls that reveal little to the street.

Just a few of the 1000 Mardi Gras. But there’s so much more than that. The Indians, of course, a world I knew nothing of as a child and even a teen in NOLA. There’s the high-society Mardi Gras of the old line Krewes, unknown to me then, and still unknown today. MOMS Ball, the off the radar after parties, the neighborhood celebrations of Krewe de Vieux in the Marigny Rectangle, dads camping on St Charles to secure prime real estate for the kids on the big day, barricades on Orleans Avenue a week before Endymion hits, and on and on and on.

And strangely, I write this in my seat on a plane crossing the Atlantic, reflecting on a Mardi Gras we’ll miss this year. 

No tears, we’ll be fine, but the decision has certainly made me reflective of the crazy layers this town has. Carnival’s not the only example, but it might be the best one. That might be the single thing hardest for those from elsewhere to get: like so much in NOLA, Mardi Gras is not a single thing, but rather a multitude of strands, each different in some degree from the others, but wrapped into a single unity. 

When we ask someone how was Mardi Gras, we’re really asking for their story. We know the theme before they start, but the plot is a mystery until they tell it, until they spill the beans on which of the (many more than) a thousand ways to measure this day and this season is their own. 

The more you look, the more Mardi Gras has to reveal. Have a great day!

 

 

 

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First Impressions: Morocco

Posted on February 20, 2012 | 3 Comments

Three days in Morocco that feels like three weeks. Forget about relaxing and decompressing: this is full-contact travel.

She said:

  • This place isn’t for the meek. It is bustling and frankly overwhelming at times with someone at every turn contriving ways to induce you to part with your dirham (although if absolutely necessary I am certain they’d settle for your dollars). The sooner you accept this fact the better prepared you are to manage it.
  • Morocco is very different from Europe. While there are some strong French influences (French is the 2nd language) the approach and overall feel of Fez and Rabat are very different.
  • The architecture is splendid and quite enchanting. If you can break away from the madness of bartering for a bit, you’ll be able to soak in the beauty and singularity of the Andalusian and Arab esthetic.

He Said:


  • Moroccan homes can be breathtaking. Riads (inner courtyard with central garden) and Dars (courtyard without garden) sometimes have central atriums as hgh as 40 feet surrounding rooms on all sides.
  • The Medina of Fes is like nothing I’ve ever seen before. More than 250,000 people in a walled city with donkeys as the only mode of transportation. Not a tourist district, but a self-contained community.
  • Five times a day the call to prayer beckoning from the minarets adds another piece of the exotic. We are most definitely not in Kansas anymore.

 

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Behind the Velvet Rope: Club Homochitto

Posted on February 10, 2012 | 6 Comments

Clear Springs Lake, Homochitto National Forest

He Said:

Tent? Check.

Sleeping Bags? Check.

Disco Ball? Check.

Oh yes, two weekends ago we got away for our annual outdoor adventure in the Clear Springs Recreational Area of Homochitto National Forest in Mississippi, a wordy description henceforth aptly and economically referred to as Club Homochitto, or C.H. for even further brevity. Hardcore campers will scoff at the idea of roughing it in the weekend party/cooking expo that has evolved over the years, but Clear Springs is a gem of a getaway only 2.5 hours away from NOLA, so those looking for some low impact wilderness should read on.

A little background to set the stage: Some years ago I found myself near the end of a lengthy email distribution list which appeared to be a casting call for idiots. Some ‘friends’ of mine were going on a little camping trip and inviting whomever was interested to join them. For me, being invited to go tent camping was a little like being invited to beat my own skull with a hammer, except more painful. Suffice it to say I was not interested. Sheree, however, felt differently. An experienced camper, she thought it sounded like fun. Even though I reminded her of our last experience roughing it, when the Ritz-Carlton in Saint Thomas ran out of coffee, she was undeterred.

So it was we found ourselves on a winter night in November, driving the final two miles down a little road to the campsite. When we got out of the car it was perhaps 38 degrees, the kind of utter dark you just don’t get in the city, and sleeting. In short, perfect conditions for pitching a tent for the first time in your life. You did catch that it was freaking sleeting, right? While the inky blackness made it nearly impossible for us to see what we were doing, it also hid the murderous looks I was shooting at my loving partner, so that at least was a plus. I feverishly attempted to google the Homochitto Hilton and realized I had no signal. Continue reading →

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Posted in Better Weekends, Food, He Said, Travel

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A Tree Grows in NOLA: City Greens

Posted on February 8, 2012 | 2 Comments

She Said:

I think there are opportunities to expand dining options, particularly lunch, in the CBD. Delis and good salads seem in short supply. I’ve been hearing the hype about the new City Greens which opened in the First Bank and Trust building at 909 Poydras and been interested in checking it out.

Last week my coworkers were looking for light fare (all still trying to address the post-holiday poundage) and asked where we should go. The weather was great so I figured why not walk down the street and see what this hydroponic green place is all about?

City Greens is slightly hidden,  tucked away behind a set of elevators in the rear of the main lobby, but once you notice the big glass doors you know you’ve found the right place.  It is bright and airy on the inside with simple and modern tables and chairs. Overall, I found it to be rather welcoming (and they had ‘OZ on the radio).

As I perused both the menu and the selection of salad ingredients behind the counter I was impressed by the variety available. There were several salads that looked interesting as well as wraps and a few soups thrown in for good measure.

Instead of a blow by blow of my almost lunch hour, I’ll summarize below:

The Good:

It is one-of-a-kind in the CBD so it definitely fills a void.

Once you figure out where the actual restaurant is, the atmosphere and staff are very welcoming.

WWOZ on the radio is a win for me.

If you are a salad lover, this is a very good selection. There are 9 different salads on the menu (each of which can be converted to a wrap), including Greek (my choice), arugula, and roasted beets and fennel, among others.

What I didn’t so much groove on:

The entire root system of a plant in my coworkers salad was pretty much a turn-off. There’s a point at which ‘non-processed’ food goes too far.

The pricing. While my salad and bottled water was just under $14 (yes, I think that is a little steep but worth it for a fresh salad on occasion), my friend’s build-your-own came in at over $17. I don’t know about you, but I don’t frequently shell out almost $18 before tip on a salad for lunch. That’s a premium number for a counter-service salad and a drink.

Ultimately the jury is out on this one. I will definitely go back as there were several things on the menu that I still want to try and I really like the idea behind the place. It also helps that it is a stone’s throw from the office. I am concerned about whether there is enough of an organic-seeking market who is willing to pay the premium.  My short answer is to stick to the menu and don’t build it, as that seemed to be the most cost-effective solution.  As I further formulate my opinion, I’ll update accordingly.

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Posted in Food, Lunch, Restaurant, Reviews, She said

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Aces of Cakes: The Best King Cake in New Orleans 2012

Posted on February 6, 2012 | 4 Comments

The field of battle at the hotel Mazarin

He and She Said:

Wow, what an evening!

Our profound thanks to everyone who attended and helped make the 2nd annual King Cake Death Match a rousing success. It was a night filled with sweetness and fun, thanks to the generosity of the eleven bakeries who graciously contributed their work. As a result, all of us had the opportunity to run the NOLA king cake gamut (and then run like hell to the gym the next day).

Above and below, some images from the event courtesy of photographer par-excellence Tonya Armbruster, whose work you can find at Nolafleur Photography, some additional notes, and of course a rundown of the winners:

The goods from La Divina

Continue reading →

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Posted in Contests, Food, He and she said

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Super Thursday: King Cake Death Match

Posted on February 2, 2012 | 3 Comments

CC image courtesy Alan Cleaver at flickr

He and She Said:

The caucuses, campaigning, debating and mudslinging are done, and election day is at hand.

It’s time to do your civic duty: Get out and vote in the bigger, bolder, sweeter, 2nd Annual King Cake Death Match.

What to do about the housing crisis? We have no idea. How to curb a nuclear Iran? We got nothing. But on the weighty issue of king cake, we’ve got a platform and a plan:

Thanks to the amazing generosity of our Gang of Eleven, we have the sweetest ballot you’ve ever seen, and it’s your job to keep the world safe for democracy by evaluating them all.

Poll tax? Unconstitutional. This event is FREE, as our electoral process was meant to be. That’s right, you’ll sample the contenders at no cost in this open pastry primary. On the ticket:

The incumbent: Cake Cafe and Bakery

And the challengers:

Haydel’s Bakery

La Divina Gelateria

La Dolce Nola

Manny Randazzo’s

Maple Street Patisserie

Maurice French Pastry

Praline Connection

Rouses

Sucre

Tartine

Your polling precinct: Patrick’s Bar Vin in the newly renovated Hotel Mazarin, 730 Bienville in the French Quarter. Ballots will be cast in the fabulous rain-proof courtyard. Bar Vin will provide a cash bar, including $5 specials on prosecco and today’s release of Lucky Player King Cake Vodka to help grease the wheels of democracy.

Polls open promptly at 7pm, and, presuming no hanging chads, a winner will be declared at 9pm.

So skip lunch (hell ,skip breakfast), and show up ready to digest the issue of the day: King cake.

 

 

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Dan Esses’ Three Muses Supper Club: 5 Seats Left

Posted on February 1, 2012 | Leave a comment

CC image courtesy Andre Deak at Flickr

He and She Said:

Ok, so there won’t actually be tango lessons (at least as far as we know), but hot off the presses there are 5 seats remaining for Dan Esses’ Central- and South-American themed supper club next Tuesday at Three Muses.

We’ve raved about both the food and the music at Three Muses in the past, and this is an event you want to grab if you can.

Here are the details and the menu courtesy of Candice Sirmon:

Supper Club is going to be on Tuesday, February 7, 2012 at
 7:00 pm at Three Muses.  

Only 5 Seats Remaining. 

Please let us know as soon as possible by emailing candice.sirmon@gmail.com if you would like to attend so that we can reserve your seat.  Also, please let us know how you heard about Supper Club and if you are friends with any current members.

Cocktails upstairs and dinner downstairs.

This dinner will have a Central and South American theme. The dinner price is $60 and includes an aperitif and amuse-bouche,
 four courses and two glasses of wine.

The menu is below and we will have extra bottles of the companion wines for purchase. 

Of course you can still bring your own bottle if you want more than the aperitif and two wines that come with the prix fixe price.

Menu:

1st course- blood orange drum ceviche with plantain chips

2nd course- smoked mushroom tamale “cannelloni”

Main course- Argentinian stuffed flank steak with chimichurri

Sides –   Yucca with toasted garlic and citrus

             Yellow coconut rice

             Marinated tomato and hearts of palm


Dessert- dulce de leche flan

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Big Girls Don’t Cry: Top Ten NOLA Valentine’s Restaurants

Posted on February 1, 2012 | 1 Comment

CC Image courtesy Daily Sunny at Flickr

She Said:

Big Girls Don’t Cry.

That is, if your someone special manages to treat you like the queen you are this Valentine’s Day. And let’s face it: he’d better if he knows what’s good for him. Last year the husband provided his perspective on what every New Orleans lady wants Cupid’s kiss to amount to. This year, it’s my turn because I’m a lady (stop snickering) and we need a little of the feminine perspective.

First things first: If you are female and you are reading this, no worries. Simply leave a post-it for the man telling him specifically at which of the following places you most want to spend your evening. Perhaps you should also include the date and time just in case. Yes, after 5 years of marriage I’ve figured out that if I want something I need to spell it out very clearly. I have found sky-writing works best.

Here’s the hard part for the men. Guys, you must ascertain whether your lovely lady prefers a quiet, intimate night at home or a fantastic dinner out. If you’re not sure, you can ask. I think that is perfectly appropriate given the stakes (no lovin’ should you screw this most romantic night of the year up).

If she’s a stay home kinda gal here are the cliff notes:

Get a nice bottle of wine at your local wine shop. Have you heard that girls love champagne? If she’s not digging the grapes consider a  specialty cocktail that you research and execute perfectly. This means you will need to practice. In case you were wondering, bourbon and coke is not a specialty cocktail. Remember, what she likes may be different from what you like and what you like really isn’t important at all. Here is the key: give her a glass of wine, champagne or her favorite cocktail as she walks in the door from work. This will get you huge bonus points and, if you don’t royally screw up dinner, is a shoe-in for a happy ending for you both.

Next, choose a three-course meal that you feel you can execute. Remember you can outsource portions of this dinner and she will still be thrilled. I would suggest if you are not a master chef that you pick up an appetizer of your choosing from the prepared meal section of Whole Foods and while you’re at it, pick up dessert. If the significant other is a huge dessert fan you may want to consider something special from Sucre and I promise you won’t be disappointed. Focus on the entrée. Steak is quite possibly the best bang for your buck if you are a kitchen novice. It is absurdly simple to make at home.  You can find here two options for a sauce: blue cheese sauce or a blackberry Cabernet reduction. Grill some asparagus as a side and presto- dinner is served. Light a candle or two for ambiance and serve her. Do not allow her to help because she will feel totally pampered as you refill her glass and bring her three courses of tasty goodness.

For those of you who have decided your special someone prefers dining out here’s the skinny on my favorite spots (in alphabetical order) that are all high on romance.

  1. Restaurant August: If you are looking to splurge, this may just be the place for you. Indulgent dining is what they do well, really well. And the restaurant is quite romantic.
  2. Bayona: This is one of my old time favorites. Not only is the courtyard perfect but the restaurant itself is cozy and indulging.
  3. Boucherie: It is no secret that we groove on this place. I like it for the big V-Day because it is quaint and welcoming and if you’re on a budget, this place certainly won’t break the bank. Call now though for a reservation. Like right now.
  4. Brigsten’s: If your love is a little bit old school but high on flavor, consider this converted house in Riverbend. Notable for both game and seafood and some of the best service in town.
  5. Gautreau’s: On Steve’s list last year and on mine this year and worth the ink. Some may consider this quaint dining room slightly antiquated- but for a romantic Valentine’s Day it fits the bill perfectly. The food is fantastic!
  6. Iris:  Outstanding cocktails and really great food. This place is slightly under radar and does boast a small but atmospheric courtyard.
  7. La Petite Grocery: To say Joel Dondis has an eye for detail is a gross understatement as this place is beautiful. Word on the street is that they are currently at the top of their game.
  8. Lilette: Here’s another encore presentation from last year. Service is great, the food is indulgent, and if the lady has a love of all things Paris, this is a good alternative in New Orleans. Top choice for francophiles.
  9. MiLa: If modern hip is her thing, this is definitely the place. Mila’s dining room has a chic sophistication about it that is matched by the food on the plate. My favorite sweetbreads in the city.
  10. Patois: This place is manages to be clubby-uptown and stylish-trendy all at the same time. Most importantly, the food and desserts are simply divine. Dine al fresco if the weather permits.

Whether you choose the Chef for an evening option or dining out, if you approach the plan (yes, you need to do a wee bit of planning) from her perspective, you’ll win big. If you have chosen the latter, a reservation is essential. May romance be yours!

 

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