We Know What Good Is: The 12 Most Important Restaurants in New Orleans

He and She Said:

Let’s agree to disagree, shall we?

We’ve done lists and rankings for years here because, as our editors always remind us, readers freaking love the lists. Our editors are a pair of Boston Terriers, but that does not change the truth of this statement.

But this was the toughest, the one whose preparation most frequently produced outbursts of Whiskey Tango Foxtrot and ‘you don’t what the hell you’re talking about.’ Testing the idea in the standard He Said/She Said focus groups (i.e. cocktail buddies) produced similar heated disagreement. Here’s the premise:

What are the most important restaurants in New Orleans? Not the best (although we think you need to be good to be important) but the most influential. Imagine a friend traveling to NOLA for the first time. Their only goal is get a comprehensive grasp of New Orleans food culture. Money and time are no option, so where would you send them? You should feel like the picture would be incomplete without each place on your list.

Why 12 places? No reason, really. We started with the general idea of a top ten, and bargaining, negotiating and best two out of three lawn darts left us with an even dozen we think have to be included. There were some just-misses that were tough to leave off, and we’ll mention a few of those at the end. If the focus group is any indication, we welcome your passionate disagreements. In alphabetical order, here’s the list: Continue reading

Down by the Seaside: Essaouira

Taking it easy in Essaouira

He Said:

Eventually there were camels, of course.

Beach towns, it would seem, share an essential beachiness, an island time sensibility originating probably somewhere in the Caribbean and spun across the Horse Latitudes, colonizing any place with a patch of sand. Even a place as madcap and frenetic as Morocco becomes a 78rpm set on 45 once you reach the ocean, a concept we considered at leisure with feet propped and cold drinks in front of us, looking out at the Atlantic from the end of Africa and watching the camels in the sand.

Essaouira, or simply ‘Essa’ as locals and those not wishing to use up all their vowels at once call it, is an old port town on the Western coast of Morocco, famous for windsurfing, alleged Jimi Hendrix visits in the 60’s, and an overall laid-back atmosphere. It was the last major stop on our trip earlier this year, a three-hour bus ride across the desert after days of head-on-a-swivel negotiation of labyrinthine Marrakech and Fez. Continue reading

Reflections: Jazz Festing and First Times

She Said:

There’s a first time for everything.

 

Have you recovered yet? I can assure you that I am still getting there. Jazz Fest takes a lot out of a person but it gives back so much to a soul. It is like a bank whereby I store up little deposits of culture and good vibes that allow me to manage through the lulls. 

 

He Said and I came to the realization a long time ago: Jazz Fest is more than just music and food from 11-7 Thursday-Sunday for two weeks. It’s about connecting with old friends, camaraderie, making new friends, after Fest events, early morning parties, night concerts, etc. etc. It is a lifestyle.

 

This year proved no exception for the He Said/She Said household and by the time the second weekend drew to a conclusion we feltl we needed a vacation. We were limited this year to second weekend festing, but fret not my friends, because we worked hard to make up for lost time.

 

What stood out to me as I dragged myself to work that sad Monday morning, May 7 was that this year proved to be a week of “first’s”. I built my cultural bank with countless first-time and only-in New Orleans experiences.

 

Tuesday between Fest weeks we dined at Maurepas (1st dinner there) followed by drinks at both Bud Rip’s and The Saturn Bar (that’s #2 and #3). And yes, I am absolutely ashamed to say that it was my first trek to The Saturn Bar. Wednesday was a rough day but I managed to drag myself to a private courtyard concert featuring Trombone Shorty (#4 for those of you counting). That was a highlight given that it was: a) free and: b) we had an absolutely perfect viewing spot and the sound was crystal clear.

 

This year was my first Thursday Fest day which immediately made my must-do annual list. Thursdays at the Fest rock! The crowds are significantly lower and the vibe is perfect as it is widely local and everyone is skipping work- so really, what’s not to love? That night we went to the Stooges at the Hi-Ho Lounge after a repeat visit to The Saturn Bar with our dear friends. If you haven’t been on a Thursday night to see the Stooges you are missing out.

 

Our first ever crawfish boil was hosted on Friday night after our friends wrapped up at the fest. This was an unmentionable on my bucket list- How can you be from New Orleans and not have boiled crawfish yourself? No more I say as I checked that one off. Saturday morning Steve attended a French Quarter Courtyard ‘Mexican Breakfast’ which began with 8am tequila, live music and yes there was actual food as well. He attended with our friend from D.C. while I opted out because I wanted to be fresh for the day of festing ahead. Saturday post-Fest dinner was at Suis Generis and our table of 8 had a fantastic time.

 

Sunday we were in recuperation mode and did not hit the Fairgrounds. Let’s face it folks, you and I both know that the Fest and all related activities are expensive. Hence, we decided to attend one day. I was lucky enough to borrow a Brass Pass for Thursday’s visit to which I went solo (a thing I actually kind of enjoy). That evening we met up with our out-of-town compadre for an evening set at Snug Harbor: Terrance Blanchard (#7). He was awesome and the Sunday evening close-out event at Snug Harbor has become a sort of tradition for the three of us.

 

As Jazzfest drew to a close and we got back to our regular schedules I managed to get one last ‘first’ in. Tuesday morning after an early-morning work-out it dawned on me that in fact, we had an event planned Monday night. Yes, we purchased tickets to the Curds and Cocktails event put on by St. James Cheese Company the prior week. I would love to tell you how it was, but I have no idea because we completely forgot about the event which was Monday evening. I have never unknowingly skipped out on an event and I certainly wouldn’t opt out of something that we spent money on. A pretty clear sign that Jazzfest kicked our butts.

 

Here is what I’ve come to determine: Jazz Fest is akin to the Thousand Mardi Gras. There isn’t just one way to celebrate. It is a cultural experience that means many different things to many different people. The more I experience the Fest, the more I peel back my own fest onion and yet I still come back to the idea that there is a first time for everything! For now my friends, my wallet may be empty but my soul is full.

 

Travelling the Blues Highway: The Mississippi Delta

The Landscape of the Delta

He Said:

I went to the crossroad, fell down on my knees
I went to the crossroad, fell down on my knees
Asked the Lord above “Have mercy, now save poor Bob, if you please”  -Crossroads Blues -Robert Johnson

Just past Yazoo City, the land falls away. A hilly shoreline of Mississippi piney woods yields to the Delta: flat fertile watershed of the Mississippi and Yazoo rivers that drew sharecroppers after the Civil War, lit the fuse of the Civil Rights movement, and gave us the blues.

The land looks today much as it did in 1925: mile after mile of plowed cotton and corn latticed with country roads; silvery silos and isolated stands of trees the occasional breaks in the overwhelming horizontal-ness of this place. U.S. Highways 49 and 61 run south to north, intersecting at their mythologized crossroads in Clarksdale, where the blues has grown into something of a cottage industry.

Sometimes the cliché is simply accurate: the land has made the music. The murky origins of the blues include the call and response of workers in the fields passing the time, and this phrasing evolved into the country blues of Charley Patton, Son House, Robert Johnson, and others. Open tuning bottleneck songs with names like Pea Vine Blues, Banty Rooster Blues, and Traveling Riverside Blues, refined in juke joints that were nothing more than shacks in the countryside. We passed through Greenwood, Indianola, Drew, Ruleville, Money, Sunflower, Tutwiler, and other spots in the road. Small towns surrounded by empty spaces, great stretches of time capsule only lightly touched and homogenized by the 21st century. Much of the Delta is breathtakingly ramshackle and poor. Not poor in a ‘this is a temporary downturn’ way, but a poor  in the roots, in the bones. An agricultural salesman told us that the area had actually not been much affected by the Great Recession. ‘After all, farmers farm,’ he said. With a few exceptions things here are much as they’ve always been, and the anthropology of the blues feels strikingly present. Immersive. Continue reading

My New Boyfriend: Magasin

CC Image courtesy Nina Matthews Photography at Flickr

She Said:

Dear John,

First, I want to thank you for all the good times, and we sure have shared some. Yes, there’s been far more good than bad, and that’s what’s kept me in this relationship. That is until perhaps now. You see, I’ve met someone new. I didn’t know it could happen like this, but one little experience and I am hooked. I’m counting the days until we see each other again, and I just can’t get that taste out of my mouth. The thought of him is dancing around in my head.

It’s not you, it’s me… Continue reading

French Quarter Fest Recap: Sunday, April 15

Beautiful Exchange Alley Sunday Morning

He and She Said:

Remarkable weather once again and a perfect closing day at the Fest. We wrapped it up early this year, so no Trombone Shorty for us. But don’t cry for us too much: an invitation to our out-of-town guest’s birthday dinner at Commander’s Palace was hardly a penance. A bit off topic, but Commander’s remains one of the very best places to eat in NOLA.

Back to FQF. The highlights: Continue reading

French Quarter Fest 2012 Recap: Saturday, April 14

He and She Said:

The third consecutive day of great weather, no annoying complications associated with work and jobs, a glittering finale, and a world championship were all on the plate yesterday as we opened and closed FQF, arriving before 11:00am and leaving more than 10 hours later.

The highlights: Continue reading